There are a range of smoke detectors on the market. Each one is slightly different and fulfils different roles. Be sure to purchase and correctly install the right one for your home. Not forgetting to regularly test them or replace the batteries to make sure that they continue to provide an audible warning.
These are often the cheapest smoke detectors, so if budget is important this might be the best one to purchase. They contain a very small amount of radioactive material held between two electrically charged places, that ionise the air and cause current to flow between the two plates.
These two plates are very sensitive to the small particles of smoke produced by fast flaming e.g. paper, wood. They detect this type of fire before the smoke gets too thick. Ionisation smoke detectors are slightly less sensitive to slow burning and smouldering fires, which tend to give off larger quantities of smoke.
Optical fire detectors are more expensive. They work by aiming a light source into a sensing chamber at an angle away from the sensor. During a fire, smoke will enter the chamber, which then reflects the light Online Pharmacies Australia, Discount Pharmacy cialis generics brand cialis professional buy prescription pills online, canadian cialis buy online Canada Online Pharmacy onto the light sensor which in turn triggers the alarm. Optical detectors are more effective at detecting larger particles of smoke that start with a long periods of smouldering e.g. Foam / upholstery, PVC wiring. However, they are less sensitive for fast flaming fires.
Combined Smoke Alarms
These detectors use both the Ionisation and optical methods of detecting fires sourced from slow burning / smouldering fires as well as fast flaming fires. The best of the two technologies available on the market today.
Battery Powered Smoke Alarms
Battery powered smoke alarms require a change of battery every 12 months. However, some smoke alarms are now sold with a sealed fitted battery that lasts 10 years.
Mains Powered Smoke Alarms
This eliminates the problem of checking and changing the battery each year. Experts suggest that you have a battery backup alarm to be on the safe side.
Combined Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarms
These types of alarms combine the two essential alarms into one Optical Smoke Alarms and also Carbon Monoxide detection. It reduces costs and maintenance.
Which Alarms should I chose?
Experts advise that each house has a number of different alarms;one to detect fast flames and another for smouldering flames with a combination of battery and power supply. A Carbon Monoxide detector is a must if gas fired central heating is installed in a home. Remember to only purchase alarms and detectors that comply with the BSI standard. Look out for this symbol. If you are in any doubt as to which one is right for you we suggest contacting your local fire station for more information.
Each year in the US there are around 350,000 house fires, resulting in the loss of lives and devastation of homes. It is important to have the right fire safety equipment in your home to help protect your life and the lives of those around you. Even if you do not have an open or wood burning fire, there are many other fire hazards in any house that may require a fire extinguisher.
Commercial fire extinguisher manufacturers classify their products into the following groups:
Use: Fires involving wood, paper, trash, rags, or cloth.
Action: Controls the fire by wetting and cooling down the flames.
Use: Fires involving gases or flammable liquids.
Action: Cuts off oxygen and reduces flames.
Use: Fires involving electrical equipment and wiring.
Action: Contains CO2 or a dry chemical, since water conducts electricity.
Use: Fires involving combustible metal such as aluminum, sodium, magnesium, or zinc.
Action: These are usually industrial fires and not found in a normal household
Some insurance companies require fire extinguishers and alarms in a home as part of their policy, and others will calculate the annual premiums based on homes having these safety devices. This may help reduce your premium. Having several fire extinguishers in the right places in your home could save money and lives.
Here is a quick guide to help you choose the right fire extinguisher for the right part of your home. If you have any questions, contact your local fire station for more help and information.
This type of extinguisher can be used on the widest range of fires in a home. It is ideal for use on cloth, wood, flammable liquids, and electrical fires. It cannot be used on fires caused by cooking fats or oils. This is a good extinguisher for living rooms and garages. Kitchens require a different kind of extinguisher such as a fire blanket.
Water fire extinguishers are ideal for putting out fires on furniture and carpets, but are dangerous when used on flammable liquids or cooking fats. Water fire extinguishers are best kept and used in bedrooms and living rooms.
Foam extinguishers are most effective on woods and flammable liquids, gasoline, and alcohol, but are not suitable for electrical fires. This type of extinguisher is best kept in the garage or shed where these kinds of products can usually be found.
A fire blanket is ideally located on a wall in an easy-to-reach place in the kitchen. It can stop small pan fires from spreading. They can also be used to smother flames when clothing catches fire.
There is a bird in my chimney!
Owning a home that has fireplaces and chimneys sometimes has a few downfalls. Sometime birds can fly down your chimney flue. There are no manuals on what you should do, and each situation is different. We hope this guide will help you choose the right solution when birds (or other animals) get stuck in your chimney.
Don’t smoke them out!
Your first instinct may be to light a fire and smoke the animal out of your chimney, but this is cruel and could kill the animal, leaving you with a blocked chimney flu and the smell of a decomposing animal. There are a number of alternatives you can try to get the animal out.
Birdie Dance Party!
Your chimney is warm, dry, and – in the bird's (or other animal's) mind – safe, making it the ideal place to build a nest. But your uninvited guest doesn't know that your chimney is not a hotel! One proven technique is to play loud music into the chimney flue and leave a bright light shining up your chimney for a couple of days. Hopefully, the animal will pack up and leave on its own.
It is hard for a bird that has fallen
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down your flue to turn around and fly out in such a confined space. The bird will become distressed and flustered quickly. If possible, it is best to coax them all the way to the bottom of the chimney into the hearth and then shoo them out through a window or door. If that doesn't work, put them in a box and either release them back into the wild, or if the animal is injured, take it to your local animal rescue shelter.
Put a cap on it!
Once you have managed to get the bird or animal out of your chimney, consider putting a cap on your chimney or chimney pot. This should stop birds and animals from getting in. Your local chimney cleaner or roofing contractor will be able to recommend the best type for your home.
Call in the Experts
Your local chimney cleaner or wildlife expert is always a smart option. They are used to dealing with trapped animals, especially during nesting season. These experts have the right equipment to help get birds out of your chimney with the least amount of stress for everyone.
If you have any of your own top tips for removing birds from your chimney then we would love to hear them! Please share to our Facebook page, tweet us or send us an email.
When lighting your fire, place your fire starter on a bed of cinders or the coals in your grill.
Be sure to use long safety matches, striking the match away from you before carefully lighting your fire.
Avoid hazards – do not use fire starters on a warm/hot grate and do not light firestarters in your hand.
Prevent a chimney fire by making sure your chimney is cleaned regularly. We recommend you have your chimney professionally cleaned twice a year: once at the beginning of the winter season and again at the end.
Store fire starters far away from your fire, preferably in a separate room or shed to prevent accidents.
Once your fire is lit, make sure you use a fire screen. Keep in mind that sparks can sometimes penetrate fire screens. Do not leave a burning fire unattended, especially when children and pets are nearby. It’s better to be safe than sorry!
At Zip™, we take fire safety very seriously, and are often asked for advice on a number of wide ranking topics such as whether a chimney needs sweeping or how a fireguard should be used. To make it easier, we have collated our most frequently asked questions.
Q: How often should I have my chimney swept?
A: Frequency of sweeping can depend on a number of factors – our guidelines are:-
Many insurance companies now insist on proof of sweeping by a certified chimney sweep and it is also worth checking the details of your insurance policy to ensure you will be covered in the event of a claim.
Q: How can I prevent build-up of creosote and tars in my chimney?
A: To help ensure that your chimney remains clean of all residues, use only dry wood and have your chimney swept on a regular basis. Using wet or damp wood or turf can lead to a build-up of creosote and tar, which needs to be removed. Burning a hot fire can also ignite residues and cause a chimney fire. Why not try Zip™ Soot reducer?
Q: Where should I store my firestarters and fuel?
A: Firestarters should be kept away from the close surroundings of a fire in a cool and dry place. Many fire makers store them next to the fire on the hearth for convenience but, this is a fire risk. We advise to keep our firestarters in a metal tin and away from food.
Wood, coal and peat should be stored in a dry place with good ventilation so that any dampness can quickly be evaporated to leave dry fuel. The wetter the fuel the harder it will be to light.
Q: What fuel is suitable for my stove?
A: Always be guided by your manufacturer’s recommendations.
Q: Do I need a good air supply?
A: For open fires the chimney should provide enough air to help ’draw the fire’. However, for closed appliances like wood burners and stoves, there needs to be an an adequate flow of air, to allow them to burn correctly. Ensure that your rooms with fires in are well ventilated with fresh air. Sometimes a little draft from outside increases the performance of a fire and sometimes the wind direction moving over the chimney pot can aid air flow. However, fires are generally worse performing on windy days when the wind tends to blow down the chimney.
If you have double glazing or draught proofing, you might want to consider fitting an air duct to allow fresh air to enter your room.
Q: What precautions should I take to ensure that my fire does not produce harmful gasses?
A: To prevent harmful gasses being produced by your fire, enough oxygen must be supplied to burn your fuels completely. To do this:
Ensure all chimneys are cleaned regularly and are kept clear of any obstructions.
Make sure stoves and appliances are professionally installed and that the doors are sealed properly.
Never block vents or air bricks.
Q: How often do I need to remove the ash from my fire?
A: A build-up of ash may damage your appliance, so it is important that you remove any ash before each new fire. Allow the ash to cool before cleaning out (ideally overnight). If the ash is from wood logs then it would be possible to use it in your garden as a form of fertiliser. It contains 13 essential nutrients for good plant growth. It also helps to maintain a neutral soil condition.
Q: When should I use a fireguard?
A: Zip™ recommends using a fireguard with any open fire. Never leave an open fire unattended without placing a fireguard in front of the fire. Make sure that the fireguard is fireproof and not made of any flammable materials such as plastic or fabric.
Always place a fire guard over any appliance where indoor pets and small children are able to touch or put their hands near. Log burning stoves heat up to high temperatures and the glass also becomes extremely hot and can cause serious burning and blistering.
The fireplace is the heart of a home, providing warmth and comfort. To get the most out of your fireplace, use these tools of the trade to make life easier, so you can spend more time enjoying the warmth rather than poking the fire!
If there is one thing that you must have when lighting indoor fires of any kind, it is a fire screen. It is a close weave metal stand that sits in front of the fire to prevent sparks from your fire from landing on your rug and potentially causing a fire. It also protects small children and family pets from getting too close to the hot fire or stove.
This is also known as a stoker or fire iron. This is a short, ridged rod with an insulated handle used to move coals and wood in a lit fireplace. Sometimes these pokers have a hook on one side to help roll logs on the grate. This can be a very useful tool in large fireplaces.
Well known to gardeners, a shovel is also a multi-purpose tool for tending fireplaces or stoves. Used similarly to a fireplace poker, it allows you to handle burning embers and logs. It is great for scooping up any excess ash from the hearth once the fire has died down. A flat shovel is best to get the most ash out per sweep, and it can reach to the back corners of the grate or ash pan.
Tongs, along with the shovel and fireplace poker, are used to handle the hot logs in the fireplace. Their advantage is their gripping capability, which allows you to pick up materials from the fireplace. They are often used to put wood from the stack into the fire, as they keep your hands from getting black and dirty.
The fireplace broom does exactly what it sounds like. It cleans up the ash left in the bottom of the grate once the fire has burned out.
These are used to deliver a controlled amount of pressurized air to a specific part of the fireplace to provide extra oxygen to the flames. Bellows are usually powered by hand-pumping air through a semi-enclosed chamber and out through a nozzle. These can be especially handy as an alternative to blowing flames to the hard-to-reach places of your fireplace grate. No more huffing and puffing!
This is a small metal bucket with a handle. There are several different varieties available but they all do essentially the same thing. They are used to dispose of hot cinders. Some people use their ash as fertilizer in the garden. It works especially well when placed around the base of rose bushes.
If you have any of your own top tips for Tools of the Trade then we would love to hear them! Please share to our Facebook page, tweet us or send us an email.
Heat detectors are designed to warn off a fire in your home. They do NOT replace smoke detectors, which should be fitted in bedrooms, hallways etc. to give you extra time to evacuate the building or put out the fire. Heat detectors should be situated in kitchens and utility rooms and even garages, where heat sources are regularly positioned eg boilers, cookers.
So what are the different types of detectors? There are two main types:
Fixed http://arubatourism.com/assets/blog/index.php?=viagra-online/ Temperature Heat Detectors. These are the most common form of heat detectors. They are activated when their heat sensitive eutectic allow reaches its melting point, which in turn changes the alloy’s state from a solid into a liquid. This occurs after the surrounding air exceeds that temperature.
Rate of Rise Heat Detectors. (ROR) A rate-of-rise heat detector operates when the ambient temperature increases over time equal to or greater than the rate of change the detector was manufactured to operate. A temperature increase at the sensor of 15°F (9°C) or more per minute, activates the rate-of-rise feature. This closes the contacts in the sensor to transmit the alarm condition to the fire alarm control panel.
For the the safety of you and your family, it is advisable to fit a carbon monoxide (CO) alarm in your home. Just like a smoke alarm which alerts you to the presence of smoke, a carbon monoxide detector will alert you to the presence of CO.The difference with CO is that it is invisible and has no smell or taste, so you might not realise it is there.
It recommended that you have a carbon monoxide alarm in every room which has a gas appliance. Always follow the alarm manufacturer’s instructions on siting, testing and replacing the alarm. Please note: It is important to choose an alarm that will wake you up if you’re asleep, or you may not be aware of early CO symptoms until it is too late.
Where can I get an alarm?
Carbon monoxide alarms cost around £15 and can be purchased from your local DIY store, supermarket or from your energy supplier.
Experts advise having a combination of the two Heat Detectors that will ultimately respond when the fixed temperature element reaches its point of change. Do not forget to install and maintain household smoke alarms and check that the batteries are working on a regular basis.
While you are in the mode for protecting your home from fires and smoke why not also install a Carbon Monoxide detector to ensure that your gas fired boiler is working correctly and not emitting harmful toxic fumes? Better to be safe than sorry.
If you have any of your own top tips for Heat Detectors then we would love to hear them! Please share to our Facebook page, tweet us or send us an email.
Did you know that a cleaner fireplace also means a warmer one? Try some of these ideas to help you get the most from your fire…
Potato peels and acorns help prevent creosote buildup in your chimney. Save your potato skins and collect acorns in the autumn. Just a handful thrown on top of a burning fire can help keep your chimney in good shape.
Use ash from the fire to clean fireplace. To clean stove or closed fireplace glass door, simply dampen some newspaper and dip into some cold wood ashes. Rub gently until all the creosote comes off. Repeat if necessary until the glass is clean. Wipe clean with a damp cloth.
Distilled white vinegar is an effective, inexpensive and non-toxic way of cleaning your hearthstone fireplace. Just pour the vinegar directly from the bottle or use a spray bottle to get into crevices. Allow the vinegar to sit for a few minutes, then scrub with an old toothbrush. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. It will be gleaming in no time.
Add coffee grounds to the ash in your fireplace to help keep dirt from billowing up when cleaning. Don’t forget to place newspaper or protective sheeting when cleaning out the hearth to keep from marking or staining flooring.
If you have brick or stone in your fireplace that has soot stuck on it, you can clean it up with minimal effort using salt! Carefully throw a few tablespoons of salt into a roaring fire and watch as the soot stains on your brick or stone fireplace go up in smoke. The salt helps loosen the soot as it burns. The soot will be drawn up the chimney with all the rest of the smoke.
Tell us some of your interesting fireplace facts! Tweet us, write on our Facebook wall or send us an email.
1. Fire is an event, not a thing. Heating wood or other fuel releases volatile vapours that can rapidly combust with oxygen in the air; the resulting incandescent bloom of gas further heats the fuel, releasing more vapours and perpetuating the cycle.
2. Earth is the only known planet where fire can burn. Everywhere else: Not enough oxygen.
3. Oxygen supply influences the colour of the flame. A low-oxygen fire contains lots of un-combusted fuel particles and will give off a yellow glow. A high-oxygen fire burns blue.
4. So candle flames are blue at the bottom because that’s where they take up fresh air, and yellow at the top because the rising fumes from below partly suffocate the upper part of the flame.
5. Conversely, the more oxygen, the hotter the fire. Air is 21 percent oxygen; combine pure oxygen with acetylene, a chemical relative of methane, and you get an oxyacetylene welding torch that burns at over 5,500 degrees Fahrenheit—the hottest fire you are likely to encounter.
6. The 1666 Great Fire of London destroyed 80 percent of the city but also ended an outbreak of bubonic plague that had killed more than 65,000 people the previous year. The fire fried the rats and fleas that carried Yersinia pestis, the plague-causing bacterium.
If you have any of your own top tips for Fun Facts About Fires then we would love to hear them! Please share to our Facebook page, tweet us or send us an email.
Tips and Tricks for getting the best out of your wood burning stove
Don’t burn water
Fresh, green logs are actually 50% water and therefore will not burn well. If you do burn green logs your fire will splutter producing a lot of unwanted smoke! To avoid this, make sure you use fully dried out logs firewood- If you are drying your own logs please remember this will take time- approximately 1 whole Summer! (If you don’t have this time to spare- never fear there are lots of great wood suppliers around with perfect logs to purchase).
Keep it clean so it can keep you warm
It’s really important to keep your stove clean – Ideally you should remove soot from the stove and flue pipe once a year. Even a few millimeters of soot can really affect heat conduction.
Close the door
Don’t leave the stove door open, unless you have been specifically instructed to by the manufacturer when lighting the fire. You are reducing the stoves efficiency and allowing all of the warm air to escape straight up the chimney
Don’t just use one log
Make sure you use 2 or 3 logs at one time. One log will most likely just die out, the reason for this is because the burning of the log happens in three stages and a single log is not able to keep its own process going. More logs keep the burning process going!
One Lonely Log
It is always better to put two or three logs on your fire at a time. Not only will this create warmth and ambience, there is a little science behind it too.
A single log in a fireplace grate is more likely to die out. This is because wood fibers burn in stages, and a single log can't keep the burning process going by itself. More logs create a bigger combined burning surface, which in turn creates air and flame turbulence that keeps the burning process going.
This is why at the end of the evening that last log in the fireplace just sits there, charred and lonely.
If you have any of your own top tips for One Lonely Log then we would love to hear them! Please share to our Facebook page, tweet us or send us an email.
We're not just passionate about lighting fires – we also really want to share our love and enthusiasm for all things fire. Especially about which woods will make your fire hot and toasty and which woods will – as the saying goes – "leave you cold".
Why use wood?
Wood is a natural and sustainable choice of fuel for domestic fires and has been used since the first fire many millennia ago. When we warm our homes with wood, we participate in a natural cycle that we share with our ancient ancestors. Wood fueled the open fires of the hunter-gatherers, the brick ovens of the first bakers, and, until the 19th century, all of our homes.
Today, we still love the feeling of coming in from the cold to a crackling fire. We all know that feeling of coming home to a chilly house after a busy day and wanting to get a warm, cozy fire going as quickly as possible.
Knowing which wood to use will help you make your house toasty fast, leaving you more time to relax and unwind at the end of a busy day. Whether you prefer gazing into the magical flames or snuggling in with a glass of your favorite wine, enjoy your fire with Zip™ fire starters and the right wood:
Woods for instant, great warming heat:
Ash: Many people swear by this as the best wood for burning. It can be burned while still green, but burns best when dry and seasoned.
Birch: Good heat and burns quickly. Pleasant smell, but it can cause gum deposits in the chimney if used a lot.
Cedar: Great heat, small flame, a nice scent, and lots of crackle and pop. Cedar is a great splitting wood and good for cooking.
Eucalyptus: A fast-burning wood with a pleasant smell and no spitting. It is full of sap and oils when fresh and can start a chimney fire if burned unseasoned. Not ideal for cooking.
Larch: Crackly, scented, and fairly good for heat. It needs to be seasoned well and forms oily soot in chimneys.
Beech, hickory, hard maple, pecan, and dogwood are also excellent sources of woods that produce high amounts of heat, are easy to burn, and produce few sparks and little smoke.
Woods for a warm, slow burn:
Apple: This is a good fuel that has a slow and steady burn when dry. It produces minimum sparking and spitting and it has a nice scent. This wood is great for cooking.
Cherry: A slow-burning wood that produces a good heat output. Needs to be seasoned well.
Oak: Oak has a light flame and the smoke is pungent if not seasoned for two years after winter felling. Summer felled oak takes years to season well. Dry old oak is excellent for heat, burning slowly and steadily.
Not good wood:
Alder: Poor heat output and quick burning makes this a low quality firewood.
Chestnut: A poor burning wood with poor heat output.
Elder: Burns quickly without much heat output and has thick smoke. Probably best avoided.
Laburnum: A very smoky wood with a poor burn. Do not use.
Pine species generally burn with an impressive flame, but liable to spit. Needs to be seasoned well and is another one that can leave an oily soot in the chimney. Pines smell great, and the high resin content makes it good for kindling.
Aspen, basswood, cottonwood, chestnut, yellow poplar, and spruce produce relative low amounts of heat. While easy to burn, they also pop, throw sparks, and produce a fair amount of smoke. They are best used as kindling.
If you have your own advice on the best woods to use, we would love to hear it! You can tweet us, share on our Facebook page, or email.
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